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Very same day after repair, gauge still does not go to "Full" just like before. Went to replace fuel sending unit again. Fuel sending unit was replaced the following week. No further issues. After approximately 2500 miles, the fuel gauge stopped reading full. Installed new accelerator pedal the following week. OBD II code P2138 which has to do with the "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch". Problems filling gas, pump would stop repeatedly and could not fill to full line.Įntire Gas Tank and fuel pump was replaced at only 660 miles.Īccelerator pedal went totally dead. finally tried OTC "Cataclean." it seems to have worked (he says cautiously). no more problems!Ĭatalytic Converter Code returned and was reset several more times. local shop "pressure cleaned" system from engine to exhaust pipe. Repair required only a 20-minute weld job.Ĭatalytic Converter (Emissions) Code. "Service Engine Soon" light came on at about 35k miles.Įxhaust pipe separated from engine side of muffler because of rust. Replaced rear engine torque strut mount with DEA A4318. But I couldn't swap parts with the other cylinders to confirm that, so I just bought a replacement boot and tried it. Fortunately, #4 coil is accessible with some difficulty, unlike #1-3 (which are located UNDERNEATH the intake manifold, if you can believe that.) I removed the coil and noticed evidence of arcing through the spark plug boot. Fortunately it was just a $19 part that I replaced my self.Ĭheck engine light came on intermittently, engine running rough. Dealer had mentioned that the rear torque rod was cracked, but when I replaced it, it appeared fine, with just a very small surface crack, which gave me the impression that they were just trying to encourage an unnecessary repair. Front engine torque rod had been replaced 15 months earlier but had already cracked again. Rubber bushing of front engine torque rod (mount) and rear torque rod were cracked. Very easy to replace, although you need a large wrench to remove the bolts, and should use a torque wrench when tightening the bolts. Rubber bushing of front engine torque rod (mount) was cracked. Thought it was normal until reading similar story online. Since car was new, every time tank was filled, fuel gauge indicated 1-2 bars below full. Not covered by Nissan 100,000 warranty so it was taken to a muffler shop where they fixed it for $50. Muffler connection to the intermediate pipe rusted and broke.Įxhaust system rusted out. There was no off-brand replacement muffler available through any suppliers, so my mechanic had to buy an OEM one from Nissan, hence the $630. The flange connecting to the muffler rusted out, resulting in a hole and a very loud exhaust. Dealer updated software and light went off. CVT has two thermostats dealer wanted close to 300 for labour DIY. Replaced air filter as troubleshooting step and had the codes cleared. No significant oil loss between oil changes at this time - decided to live with it for a while.Ĭar was showing Service Engine Soon light and code P1421 was revealed.
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The job requires replacement of the valve cover gasket and the front main seal, as well, the technician said. During A/C operation, at a traffic light, car in drive, held by service brake.when A/C compressor would engage, engine revs would drop to the point of almost stalling before the computer would recover idleĭealer found an oil leak emanating from the timing cover on the engine. All that was mentioned was a low end noise. I was called the next day and told I needed a new engine.11 months and 24,000 miles since new. It was a warmup sensor that had a change in specs.ĭropped it at my dealers night drop on the way home from work. Service engine soon light on, A sensor needed to be re-programmed.